George Bernard Shaw once said “We don’t stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing” and this is exactly what my conversation with Felipe Pomar sparked in my mind. Felipe Pomar is a surfing icon and is listed in the Encyclopedia of Surfing as one of the most prominent surfers of his generation. His career in surfing started in the 60’s. He has an incredible life story to share. I was honored to sit down for a chat with him.
Listen to the Episode Here
This week I got to sit down for a fascinating conversation with Cris Mills. Cris has created the dream job. His work involves teaching surfers how to be better surfers and recovery for athletes in surfing. He has created his own personal brand that you may have come across online, it’s called Surf Strength Coach. He’s been making videos for over a decade and you’ll find them all over YouTube. You also may have come across some of his articles in The Inertia, on Magic Seaweed and Surfer Today.
I say Cris has created a dream job, because beyond doing what he loves, he also gets to travel a lot and take his clients on the most incredible waves on the planet.
I had a really enlightening conversation with Cris : we discuss Cris’ background story, how he has become specialized in helping surfers recover and find overall fitness. And how overall fitness should be apprehended in a holistic way.
Cris has a beautiful view of the human body and it’s interaction with surfing
We talk about the most common surfing injuries and how to prevent them
We also talk weight control, diet and nutrition, breathing and managing fear, and how our own thoughts are all part of the equation.
Cris has a very sensible way of viewing progression in surfing :
I really love the way Cris has created a job he is passionate about and the amount of knowledge he has acquired over the years. I love Cris’ systemic approach to fitness and I think he has so much more to share. So I really encourage you to skip over to his website www.surfstrengthcoach.com and sign up to one of his courses, one to one coaching or even one of his epic surf trips.Take a look at his YouTube channel because he has a really interesting series on all type of surf related injuries and how to overcome them.
To get hold of Cris, skip to http://www.surfstrengthcoach.com his website, or follow him on Instagram , Facebook or YouTube . There is some precious content out there. The next surf trips he’s organising with Clayton Neinaber are in 2020:
- The Mentawais for first timers to intermediate 13–25 March
- Nicaragua in June
- Sri Lanka
- North Sumatra
Watch out for the app that is coming out too. All the links to the books, podcasts and references are also on the weekly article I write on Medium.com. In any case, you’ll be able to find Cris sharing his knowledge on his Instagram stories too. It’s well worth while.
Special thanks to Cris Mills for being such an eloquent and inspiring guest and for teaching us so much. And thank YOU for listening. You guys are amazing!
Until next week, take care, have fun and enjoy the waves!
- How to Eat, Move and be Healthy by Paul Chek :
- Prometheus Rising :
- Joe Dispenza :
This week, I got to sit down and chat with Al Mennie to talk about his latest book Overcome or Succumb, a book all about facing fear, anxiety and panic, in a goal to conquer life.
Anxiety and Fear affect millions of people to varying degrees across the world and appear to be a growing issue despite lots of research and resources available in how to handle them. Al believes his experience surfing some of the biggest waves on the planet has lead him to understand anxiety, fear and panic and allowed him to handle lots of everyday situations with a similar approach.
Today my guest is Simon Short, also known as The Average Surfer. Simon is from England but he lives in sunny California. He is a writer. He has been a regular contributor to The Inertia, one of the coolest surfing magazines on the planet.
In 2016, he attracted a lot of attention when he published an inspiring article about Surfing, Depression and the Need for Identity. The success of this intimate and moving story inspired him to continue writing.
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