George Bernard Shaw once said “We don’t stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing” and this is exactly what my conversation with Felipe Pomar sparked in my mind. Felipe Pomar is a surfing icon and is listed in the Encyclopedia of Surfing as one of the most prominent surfers of his generation. His career in surfing started in the 60’s. He has an incredible life story to share. I was honored to sit down for a chat with him.
Listen to the episode here
This week I got to sit down for a chat with Alexandra Lia. I must admit this talk was an incredible cosmic journey through the mind, the body and the soul. You could say Alexandra is a half German half Greek goddess: she is a creative, a filmmaker and a therapist who runs a platform called Soul Surfer, a place for people to find wellness through meditation, workshops and coaching via the healing properties of water.
Almost an instant after having met, Alexandra and I were connected. In fact, just a few minutes into our chat, we were both in tears on either side of our Skype screens and the outcome is a fascinating conversation about her journey and how her profession found her in a serendipitous way.
Alexandra’s story is an odyssey of healing. Without spoiling the whole tale, Alexandra had an incredibly traumatic experience that sent her into a severe depression.
Years after drifting from doctor to doctor and from medication to medication, her super open-minded parents introduced her to a Kahuna:
This encounter lead Alexandra to learn to surf
Alexandra and I pursue our chat and explore the extraordinary properties of water and its memory!
Alexandra also exposes her next project to come : Seatizens, a film series about a voyage around the world meeting up with sea citizens, that we should be hearing about soon…
Thank you so much Alexandra for being an amazing guest and for sharing your story with so much grace and confidence.
Thank YOU for listening!
Until next episode, take care, have fun and enjoy the waves!
Today my guest is Simon Short, also known as The Average Surfer. Simon is from England but he lives in sunny California. He is a writer. He has been a regular contributor to The Inertia, one of the coolest surfing magazines on the planet.
In 2016, he attracted a lot of attention when he published an inspiring article about Surfing, Depression and the Need for Identity. The success of this intimate and moving story inspired him to continue writing.
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